Walk around the island once in your lifetime, the whole island, all of its shore. The blue of sea and sky blend so well, and the sun stings all over and sweat runs down your neck, a little river that reaches your navel.
The beach is soft sand, then becomes hard and grey and pebbly, and leads to a thicket of Eucalypts, their long and slender leaves hanging down, a whole carpet of yellow upon dry, yellow leaves. Past the row of old fishermen on the pier, you follow the fresh scent of freedom and about half way through the adventure you reach the bay with the white cliffs. You have seen them before, those incredible rocks, white stairs leading to redemption.
To get to them you have to pass the sign which says KEEP OUT and the barbed wire. Keep walking into this strange, barred paradise. Not a soul in sight. Keep going.